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Why Good Regulatory Policies Will Help Small, Independent Businesses

Three words come to mind: Clairol Herbal Essences. Aimed at “generation Y” women who want to use environmentally sound and natural products, this is the number-two shampoo, with sales topping 42 million and six percent of market share – more than all the shampoos made by the natural products sector combined.

Yet how natural and “herbal” is it really? Herbal Essences Body Envy shampoo, which ranks a five (moderate hazard) on Skin Deep, contains at least 15 synthetic chemicals, including several linked to allergies and skin toxicity; a synthetic fragrance made of who-knows-what; and at least one carcinogenic contaminant not listed on the label. (More on that soon, including a big announcement from parent company Procter & Gamble).

The point is: the product is certainly not natural or herbal, but it has an extremely effective marketing campaign.  The brand even shows up on sit coms.

To have a free and fair market, we’d need to have full transparency and full information available to consumers about what they’re really buying, so they can make the best choices.

But in a market like this, when the true toxicity of products and even the ingredients are hidden from consumers, the advantage goes to the company that spends the most money on market research and ad campaigns to convince people they’re buying something that will enhance their sense of well being, even if it’s just a dressed-up bottle of the same old synthetic chemicals.

Polices that require full disclosure of product ingredients (including fragrance chemicals and contaminants) and limit the hazardous chemicals allowed in products will not only protect people’s health, they will serve as a tool to educate consumers and help them make smarter choices. They will give an advantage to companies that are already doing the right thing and making safer products.

The true innovation in the beauty industry is happening right now in the natural products sector, where many small, independent, values-driven companies are solving the toxicity problems of the past and figuring out how to make truly great, non-toxic products – products that actually do enhance well-being.

If only we could put that story on a sit com. Until then, policies that increase transparency and open up the information flow are the best bet for leveling the playing field for the independent business community.

Stacy Malkan, 3/11/10

Read more about how P&G revived the Herbal Essences brand by putting lots of effort into the curvy new bottle (and apparently not much thought into the chemicals in it).

The Truth about the Colorado Safe Cosmetics Act

The sky is falling! Or so you’d think from the kerfuffle over a bill that would have banned cancer-causing chemicals from cosmetics in Colorado. In blogs and on twitter, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics was accused of everything from Evil Oz-ery to getting paid by FDA to circulate lies about toxins (my personal fave).

So, to set the record straight: The bill (which died yesterday in committee) was sponsored by the Colorado Women’s Lobby, not the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, and was an attempt to protect consumers from being exposed to the worst chemicals used in cosmetics.

Contrary to some claims, the bill would not have banned olive oil or any other natural food-grade ingredients, but only chemicals that are already banned from cosmetics in the EU, and which also appear on other authoritative bodies’ lists of chemicals known to cause cancer or reproductive harm (EPA, NTP, IARC and NOISH) – about 15 chemicals in all, most of which are not ever used by small companies.

We environmental health advocates are big fans of small, indie businesses, in case anyone was wondering. As SF Magazine just wrote, the activism of Campaign for Safe Cosmetics has been a major factor behind the growth of a vibrant, locally-based natural products industry in the Bay Area. For more about why policy action is also necessary, see this Denver Post op-ed by State Rep. Dianne Primavera.

PS: if anyone knows where I can apply for FDA funding to do the agency’s job for it, let me know!

Stacy Malkan, 3/9/10

Not Just a Pretty Face published in Korean

Stacy Malkan’s award-winning book, “Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry”is now available in Korean. Copies are available through the U.S. based bookseller:
SPRING WATER BOOK IMPORT, INC.
3003 W. Olympic Blvd. #105, Los Angeles, CA 90006
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Debate over Good Hair is also about Good Health

What kind of world are we in where the President’s daughter gets lambastedgoodhair for wearing her natural hair Impact Pt I hd Serenity move ? The social pressure on black women to use harsh chemical treatments on their hair is outrageous and oppressive — not to mention dangerous for their health.

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Hair relaxers are among the most toxic products on the market, with 2/3 of the hair relaxers on Skin Deep ranking a 7-10 (with 10 being the worst). The most toxic hair relaxer in Skin Deep is called Africa’s Best “Organic” relaxer for kids! — which goes to show, you can’t trust labels on these unregulated products. And it raises another problem: toxic treatments are being marketed to very young girls at a time when their bodies are most vulnerable to harm from toxic exposures.

According to researchers at the University of Pittsburgh Cancer Institute, the early and life-long exposure to hair products — including heavy conditioners that contain placenta and other hormone-disrupting ingredients — may be contributing to the high rates of breast cancer in young African American women.  The authors advise parents to avoid using any personal care products on children that may contain hormones or placenta.

Hair weaves are problematic from a health standpoint too — many contain formaldehyde glues, as well as other hazardous chemicals that beauty workers and their clients are breathing in. These products need to get cleaned up so they are safe. Stand up for women’s health by getting involved with the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and help get toxic chemicals out of all beauty products.

Stacy Malkan, author of Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry In God’s Hands download .” See chap. 5 for more about cultural pressure and the beauty myth!Alien Raiders rip

Deformed genitals, disappearing boys, what's going on?

red eyed frogYears ago, when we reported that 70% of beauty products contained chemicals linked to birth defects of the penis, I was asked a funny question: If this chemical is harmful to boys, why do we have to worry if it’s in products used by women? I thought, seriously? Unfortunately, the person was serious, and so were the dozens of others who asked the same question. So I learned that you have to actually answer this question: Um, because boys come from the bodies of women.

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Yes, if we want to protect people of all sexes — and, it turns out, species of all kinds — from gender-bending chemicals, we need to keep these chemicals away from females who are, might be, or might someday want to become pregnant. In other words, we have to keep these chemicals out of commerce.

To get an idea of the scope of the problem, see Nicholas Kristof’s piece in the NYT: It’s Time to Learn from Frogs and this CBC documentary: The Disappearing Male.

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Sperm counts are plummeting, and scientists note a remarkable decline in fertility rates in industrialized countries.

But don’t worry, says the beauty industry, it’s just “a little bit” of estrogenic parabens and gender-bending phthalates in the shampoo, lotion, deodorant, perfume and baby wipes. Help give the beauty industry a makeover!

Stacy Malkan, June 30

Nothing But Tears: Spare us the excuses about formaldehyde in baby shampoo

Industry apologists are out in force on the Mommy blogs, telling us not to worry our pretty little heads about carcinogens in baby shampoo. The chemicals are used for good reason, explains Johnson & Johnson

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, makers of the iconic Johnson’s Baby Shampoo that, according to the label, is “pure,” “gentle” and “the number one choice of hospitals.” It also happens to contain the hazardous substances formaldehyde and dioxane, which are not listed on labels. The two chemicals are known to cause cancer in animals, and formaldehyde can also cause skin rashes in kids who are sensitive to the chemical.safecosmetics_banner_2_151.jpg

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What you won’t hear from J&J: Many other companies are already making gentle, pure and wonderful baby products that do not contain known carcinogens and allergens. And that’s what Johnson’s should be doing too.

Check out the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics report. Also see ABC News and the Washington Post United 93 video chat with me.

For more information about how the big beauty companies are hiring lobbyists and spinsters to keep themselves unregulated and convince us to keep using toxic products, see my book, “Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry.”Stacy Malkan, 4/6/09

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Sex, Lies and Photoshop Scandals

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about the airbrushed photo scandal that is making the rounds on the web. “So what, I have a little cellulite,” she said. “How many people do you think are photoshopped? It happens all the time.”

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You might not believe how much! Check out this enlightening video clip by Jesse Epstein on the New York Times website The All Together move — every young girl should see it, and know the extent to which photos are manipulated in the extreme.

Even famous women are photoshopped to the point of being inhuman. Here’s Jessica Alba as she really looks (beautiful) on the left, and with 10 pounds shaved off and all bronzed up for the photo, in order to sell us… what?  Jessica Alba.

Caution: Toxic Beauty Products on a Sink Near You

abc view from the bayDo your favorite products contain hazardous chemicals? Watch Stacy Malkan discuss the latest research from her award-winning book “Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry” on ABC 7 San Francisco, View from the Bay

Also see Stacy on: ABC 7 Chicago

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Wall Street Journal article names “Not Just a Pretty Face” by Stacy Malkan one of the best environmental books. Buy Stacy’s book here. Deep Blue Sea the movie

Recent articles by Stacy Malkan:
Pretty In Pink? Companies market make-up to girls as young as 3, and the health implications are huge — Natural Solutions magazine

Panic in the Organic Aisle: How a dirty scandal is forcing the natural products industry to come clean – The Barefoot Contessa dvd Common Ground magazine

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: “The fantasy of a body spray transforming an adolescent boy into a virile Casanova who attracts throngs of lust-crazed women couldn’t be further from the truth.” Check out this new study showing how fragrance chemicals called phthalates may be feminizing male babies The Grudge 3 .

Beauty Industry Rep Denies the Good News

Under pressure from activists and regulators, leading beauty companies have removed some particularly nasty chemicals called phthalates from their products, according to a new report from Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. In a story in USA Today

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Well why not? Phthalates are linked to birth defects, damaged sperm and feminized genitals in males

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, yet some companies continue to put these chemicals into perfume and fragrance-containing products. It’s time for the billion-dollar beauty companies to get on board with the trend of making safer, toxic-free products that consumers want and deserve. Read more about the science and industry’s position on phthalates in Chapter 2 of my book, “Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry.” – Stacy Malkan

Recent coverage: Green LA Girl blog

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, Plenty magazine, and Health.com story about the links between breast cancer and chemicals in cosmetics.

More from the L'Oreal X-Files

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The French titan of the beauty industry is caught in yet another toxic firestorm. This time, L’Oreal is getting sued by a former employee — the director of regulatory affairs Six Thugs movie , no less — who claims he was fired for complaining to his superiors that the company put animal ingredients into their “100% vegan” line and sold products containing banned toxic chemicals. Oh L’Oreal, was it worth it?Scoop Night and the City psp

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